The West, including the SIAFU reunion
July 2012

LAUNCHED: 23 August 2012.       LAST UPDATED: 19 December 2012

Accessed at least many times since 2012.

OVERVIEW: The main purpose of this trip was to attend a reunion of a group of people who travelled through Africa together 40 years ago. It was held at a dude ranch about 50 miles west of Calgary, Alberta. I flew to Denver, rented a car, stayed with my brother and sister-in-law near Aspen, spent a night with an Antarctican in Crowheart, Wyoming, spent a night in the Tetons, two days with the Moores who I worked for on their ranch in Two Dot, Montana, back in 1960, spent a night in Glacier National Park, then to Calgary and the reunion. Afterwards, drove to Vancouver, ferry to Salt Spring Island and then to Victoria, ferry to Seattle, then train to Portland, and finally flew home from there.

You can see all the photos below plus all the others I took—good and bad—at

You can scroll through and have a look at my entire trip or just go to the section that interests you:
Go to At John & Lucy's, Colorado

Go to Colorado to Wyoming

Go to The Grand Tetons, Wyoming

Go to Harlowton and Two Dot, Montana

Go to Glacier National Park, Montana

Go to Calgary and the SIAFU reunion, Alberta

Go to Vancouver, BC

Go to Salt Spring Island, BC

Go to Victoria, BC

Go to Seattle, Washington

Go to Portland, Oregon

Friday, 6 July 2012. Up about 4am or so, drove to Nashua, left my car at the bus station and take the Boston Express to Logan Airport. And flew off to Denver.

AT JOHN & LUCY'S, Colorado

Approaching the Denver Airport.

I took the Super Shuttle into Denver and picked up a rental car at Avis (close to $100 cheaper than at the airport) and headed west for John and Lucy's (brother and sister-in-law) place on the Frying Pan River not too far from Basalt, Colorado. Some torrential rain as I neared my destination, apparently the first rain they've had for ages.

The Ruedi Reservoir between Basalt and John & Lucy's.

The Snake Ranch on the Frying Pan River near Basalt.

No particular plans, just a relaxing visit. Had a look around Basalt, including its new library, and had dinner up the road in El Jebel on Saturday night. Earlier that day, John and I drove up to Aspen to see a friends of mine, Buddy and Connie Bates, stopping at Snowmass on the way. Buddy drove John and I around Aspen pointing out some of the sites including the Smuggler Mine.

The Smuggler Mine in Aspen. The world's largest silver nugget (2,054 pounds!) was found here in 1894.

John and Lucy at the Down Valley Tavern Saturday night.


Sunday 8 July 2012. Up early and off around 7am. This would be the longest drive of my entire trip, well over 500 miles. Into Glenwood Springs and northwest through Meeker, briefly into Utah and then into Wyoming via Manila.

My rental car. It had Sirius radio which I had never experienced before. Terrific.

The view of the Green River in Flaming Gorge near Manila, Utah, from Rt 44.

Into Wyoming near Manila, Utah.

I was heading eventually to stay with Neelon and Susan Crawford but wanted to make a detour to Little America. Why you might ask? Well, it has Antarctic connections. It's essentially a giant truck stop and first opened in the late 1920s. The owner was so impressed by Richard Byrd's first Antarctic expedition that he named his place after Byrd's base: Little America. There wasn't an awful lot there of an Antarctic nature so after a few photos, I retraced some miles and eventually got to my destination of Crowheart at the end of the day.

Little America. See the penguins at the corners of the tower?

Neelon and Susan's place in Crowheart, Wyoming.

Neelon's got a large building (the red one) filled with his photography and art. We spent some time there and also walking the bounds of their property. Neelon has his own stone circle; the rocks are big enough to see in Google Earth.


"Nearby Crowheart Butte was the site of a battle between the Crow and Shoshone American Indian tribes in 1866. According to legend, following a five day battle for rights to the hunting grounds in the Wind River Range, Chief Washakie of the Shoshone and Chief Big Robber of the Crow agreed to a duel, with the winner gaining the rights to the Wind River hunting grounds. Chief Washakie eventually prevailed, but he was so impressed with the courage of his opponent, that rather than scalp him, he instead cut out his heart and placed it on the end of his lance."

Neelon Crawford with some of his Antarctic photogaphs.

Enjoying dinner with Neelon and Susan. Sunset after dinner.


Monday 9 July 2012. I set out for the Tetons after lunch, I think, driving through Dubois and not long afterwards had my first glimpse of the Tetons, my favorite of all American mountains. (I first saw them in 1960—fifty-two years ago!) They kept peeking up in the distance the closer I got until I arrived in Colter Bay on Lake Jackson where I had a cabin for the night.

Approaching the Tetons.

Approaching the Tetons.

Approaching the Tetons.

My cabin at Colter Bay.

I drove up nearby Signal Mountain. Great views that I remembered from my first visit. Later I went to Jackson Lake Lodge where I had a drink, watched the sun go down and had dinner. The enormous windows frame great views of the mountains. People used to sit there for hours looking out at the view. Now they sit there staring into their laptops and smartphones!

The Tetons from the top of Signal Mountain.

Jackson Lake Lodge.
"In 2003, the lodge was listed as a National Historic Landmark. Designed by architect Gilbert Stanley Underwood and completed in 1955, the lodge is an example of the National Park Service's interpretation of the International Style which was commonly seen in structures built on U.S. Government parklands in the mid-20th century. The lodge combines elements of the more rustic structures of the earlier decades of the 20th century with a more modern design elements that became standard for the next couple of decades."

View from Jackson Lake Lodge.
I had dinner on the terrace and enjoyed the sunset.

Tuesday 10 July 2012. Early the next morning I went off on a breakfast cruise on Lake Jackson. We headed to an island and had a sumptous breakfast in great surroundings.

The Tetons from an island in Lake Jackson.

Breakfast on an island in Lake Jackson.


Back on land, I set out for Bozeman, soon going through Yellowstone. (I just don't get the appeal of this park. No spectacular scenery and lots of traffic.) I stopped in at Canyon Village which I have fond memories of from back in 1960. A big construction zone at the moment and the lodge I remember is no longer. Went out at the top of the park at Mammoth Hot Springs. By the end of the day I found myself in Bozeman at the Day's Inn. Soon after arrival I had a call from Kay Moore and an hour later I met up with her and Jim at the
Cafe Internationale for dinner. The last time we had been together was back in 1972. The first time was in 1960 when I worked for the summer on their ranch in Two Dot. Jim went on to become a lawyer in Harlowton, and eventually they moved to Bozeman. Their son, Steve, and his wife, Susan, now run the ranch. We'll be going there for a visit tomorrow.
After dinner we did a tour around Bozeman including the university and south of town where the Moores now live on a lovely property.

Wednesday 11 July 2012. Jim and Kay picked me up at the motel and we're off for a full day excursion to Harlowton and Two Dot, somewhat more than 200 miles. We arrived at Harlowton in the late morning and had a look around. It's about 12 miles east of the ranch. When I worked there in 1960 Harlow was a pretty active place. It was a major railroad town. I'd go in on Sundays with the Moores when they went to church and I would relax at the Graves Hotel, which is still there but closed down.
"Harlowton is a city in and the county seat of Wheatland County, Montana, United States. The population was 1,062 at the 2000 census. The city was once the eastern terminus of electric operations (1914–74) of the Milwaukee Road railroad's "Pacific Extension" route, which went all the way to Avery, Idaho. Here, steam or diesel locomotives were changed or hooked up to electric locomotives. Harlowton was founded in 1900 as a station stop on the Montana Railroad, a predecessor to the Milwaukee, and was named for Richard A. Harlow, the Montana Railroad's president."

Approaching Harlowton.

Main Street, Harlowton. Left: Looking South. Right: Looking North.

The Graves Hotel in Harlowton. Sadly no longer the bustling place it once was.

My first meal on arrival in Harlowton in 1960 was at this drive-in.

Wind turbines north of Harlowton.

The Ranch—Moore Livestock Company—just west of Two Dot, and 12 miles west of Harlowton.

Click here to see some photos from my summer in Two Dot in 1960 and a short visit in 1972.

We left Harlowton and headed west for Two Dot, through the town and on to the ranch. The ranchyard was pretty deserted; I took some photos and we drove back to Two Dot to meet up with Steve and Susan for lunch in the Two Dot bar, which struck me as being pretty much unchanged since I was there in 1972 and 1960.

Approaching the ranch.

Approaching the ranch.

The Ranchyard.

Bunkhouse—Then (1972) & Now.

This is where I and perhaps three others stayed when I worked on the ranch in 1960.

Cookhouse—Then (1972) & Now.

Mrs. Anderson was the cook in 1960. We had breakfast, lunch and dinner around the long table. I remember that there wasn't much talking at mealtimes.

The Ranch—Then (1972).

Outbuildings. See the brand on the side: HF.

Click here to find out more about Two Dot.

Two Dot on June 14, 1918.

Two Dot's main street in 1972.

The Two Dot Bar, 2012.

Rob, Steve, Susan, Kay and Jim inside the Two Dot Bar, 2012. Just as I remember it in 1960.

After lunch we drove back to the ranch and on to Steve and Susan's place which, although on the ranch, is another couple of miles or so further west. It's a handsome modern log house at the so-called Sherman Place which I remember from 1960. Jim, Steve and I decided to drive up to the butte which is the route we used in August 1960 to drive the cattle from the other side of the butte back to main ranch. We did that on horses; now they use motorcycles.

Steve and Susan's place. Kay, Susan, Steve and Jim.

The view from Steve and Susan's place.

Up on the butte.

Jim, Kay and I headed back to Bozeman on another route and said our "good-byes" over a bowl of chili at Wendy's.


Thursday 12 July 2012. Off for Glacier National Park. I had a quick look around Butte and Missoula on the way. Shortly after the latter, I came upon St Ignatius and stopped to see the mission and I'm glad I did.
"The St. Ignatius Mission is a landmark Roman Catholic mission founded at its present location, St. Ignatius, Montana, in 1854 by Father Pierre-Jean De Smet and Father Adrian Hoecken. The current mission church was built between 1891 and 1893, and listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places in 1973.
The mission church is a simplified, vernacular example of Gothic revival architecture constructed of bricks made from native clay. The most exceptional feature of the interior are the 58 murals painted by Brother Joseph Carignano, an untrained artist who worked as a cook in the mission."

St Ignatius Mission, St Ignatius, Montana.

I entered the Park at Apgar and drove along Lake McDonald to the Lake McDonald Lodge where I'll have far too short a stay.

Entrance to Lake McDonald Lodge.
"The Lake McDonald Lodge, initially known as the Lewis Glacier Hotel, was the second hotel on the site. The first, the Snyder Hotel, was built by George Snyder in 1895. It was accessed by s steamboat that ran the 10 miles from the Apgar area to the hotel, preceded by a two-mile trip on a horse-drawn carriage and a ferry trip over the Middle Fork Flathead River.
The Lewis Glacier Hotel lodge was built in 1913 by John Lewis, a land speculator from Columbia Falls, Montana. He bought the land, amounting to about 285 acres, in 1904-5 and had the hotel built during a period when the Great Northern Railway was building other hotels and backcountry chalets, including Many Glacier Hotel, Glacier Park Lodge, Granite Park Chalet, Sperry Chalet, and Two Medicine Store. This movement was part of a trend by railroads during that time to build destination resorts in areas of exceptional scenic value. Railroads wanted to attract tourists and create resorts that were equal to the scenery, and private operators like John Lewis had to build equally impressive facilities in order to keep up. The Lewis hotel, designed by the Spokane firm of Kirtland, Cutter and Malmbren, was a much more ambitious undertaking. The hotel was built in 1913-14, working through the winter months, and opened in June 1914. The new hotel was designed to continue the Swiss cottage theme already developed by the Great Northern railway hotels. Artist Charles M. Russell was a frequent guest at the hotel in the 1920s, and is claimed to have etched pictographs in the dining room's original fireplace hearth.
In 1930, the Great Northern Railway acquired the hotel through its subsidiary, the Glacier Park Hotel Company. The hotel's name was changed to Lake McDonald Lodge in 1957. It was damaged in a flash flood in 1964 that destroyed the fireplace and the Russell etchings. The Glacier Park Hotel Company was sold to the Dial Corporation in 1981, then spun off with the Viad company. The lodge was extensively renovated in 1988-89, restoring details that had been obscured over time or damaged by the Snyder Creek 1964 flood. Today, the lodge maintains its historic character.
The Lake McDonald Lodge faces the lake, where early visitors arrived. With the construction of the Going-to-the-Sun Road, visitors began to arrive at what had, until then, been the rear of the hotel, which still retains its character as a secondary entrance despite the traffic it receives. Road access arrived by 1921. The main building is 3-1/2 stories high, with a stone foundation and wood framing above. Exposed stone surfaces on the exterior have mostly been covered with white stucco. The upper floors are clad in brown wood clapboards, with sawn fancy trim patterns picked out in white on the upper levels as frieze bands. The white stucco fireplace chimney dominates the present entry elevation, offset around the window above the fireplace.
The hotel features a large lobby near the northeastern end which faces southeast, centered on a large stone fireplace set in an inglenook recess on the south wall, surmounted by a large window. The lobby is three stories tall, decorated with skins and taxidermy mounts of native species acquired or trapped by John Lewis, who supplemented the hotel business by trapping, often in the park. There are balconies on the second floor to either side, and on the second and third floors at the rear of the lobby. The building's heavy timber frame is exposed in this area. Stairways to the upper levels feature natural burled log elements. This element is flanked by guest room sections with perpendicular gables on either side. Guest rooms are primarily on the two upper levels. The dining room is to the southwest of the lobby on the main floor in a 1-1/2 story wing,facing the lake, with a 1-1/2 story kitchen wing adjoining. The exterior features balconies on all elevations on the guest room levels and porches on the ground levels. Exposed framing is a mixture of sawn heavy timbers and log framing, often with the bark remaining. Sawn railings with decorative patterns have replaced some of the log railings on the balconies. Log railings remain in the upper levels of the lobby."

Inside Lake McDonald Lodge; The Mountain Goat.

I decided to take a cruise around the lake for an hour or so before having a drink and then a hearty pot roast dinner in the dining room.

On Lake McDonald.

All restored and still running.

The dining room at Lake McDonald lodge where I stayed one night and had a lovely pot roast dinner.

Friday 13 July 2012. I had arranged earlier to meet up with Dave and Cheryl Ellen in East Glacier. I'd drop my rental car off there and we'd go on together to the SIAFU reunion west of Calgary. Well, that all worked out fine but it meant that I had to get up around 4:30am in order to get to East Glacier by 8:30. Between the two places is the Going-to-the-Sun Road, a very narrow and very twisty road that one takes slowly (particularly as this was Friday the 13th). As it turned out, going real early was a good thing (though I didn't see much until well into the drive) because there was no traffic.

I reached East Glacier with time to spare so had a large leisurely breakfast and dropped by the East Glacier Lodge to have a look. Pretty spectacular log work.

The East Glacier Lodge.

Dave, Cheryl and I went on our way and were soon in Cutbank, Montana, which rang a bell in my mind. It's the home of the world's largest concrete penguin. So of course I had to find and photograph it.

The largest concrete penguin in the world. That's Cheryl for scale.


Click here to go to another site devoted to the reunion.

Friday 13 - Friday 20 July 2012.
The whole timing of this trip had to do with a reunion of a group of us who drove through Africa together in 1972-73. Many of us have congregated before, starting in Jaffrey, then north of Montreal, then Scotland, then Queensland and now a dude ranch west of Calgary. In 2015 we hope to be in Spain.

On the Way to VANCOUVER, British Columbia

Frirday 20 July 2012. After breakfast, packing and many "goodbyes," we dispersed our separate ways. Sue, Donna and I headed off in Sue's car for a two-day drive to Vancouver. Our first stop, actually just a quick tour around, was Banff.
"The area was named Banff in 1884 by George Stephen, president of the Canadian Pacific Railway, recalling his birthplace in Banffshire, Scotland. The Canadian Pacific built a series of grand hotels along the rail line and advertised the Banff Springs Hotel as an international tourist resort."

The Banff Springs Hotel. They built hotels back then!

Somewhere between Calgary and Vancouver.

Along the Giant Cedars Boardwalk Trail east of Revelstoke, BC.
We stopped here for a walk-around. Also to the nearby Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk.

Sue with her brother, Mike, and sister-in-law Joy,
and Donna on the right in Kelowna, BC, where we stayed on our way to Vancouver.

Saturday 21 July 2012. Kelowna turns out to be the fruitbasket of BC. Lovely cherries when we were there. And many, many wineries. We paid a visit to Mission Hill which was quite stupendous.

Mission Hill Winery. What a great place.

VANCOUVER, British Columbia

It was a long day at the end of which we were in Vancouver and Sue and Donna dropped me at the YWCA which would be my home for the next couple of nights. The weather wasn't always the best but I enjoyed my stay. There's an awful lot of new development in Vancouver. I loved the new library and spent much of Monday morning there when it was raining. I took the little water taxi around False Creek, walked around Granville Island, took a tour bus, visited the art gallery, and had a couple of very nice meals.

The YWCA—where I stayed in Vancouver.

The Vancouver skyline.


Moshe Safdie's Vancouver library.
"The Library Square Project was the largest capital project ever undertaken by the City of Vancouver. The decision to build the project came after a favourable public referendum in November 1990. The City then held a design competition to choose a design for the new building. The design by Moshe Safdie and DA Architects was by far the most radical design and yet was the public favourite. The inclusion of the 21 story office tower in the design was required in order to pay for it and as part of a deal with the federal government to obtain the land; the federal government has a long term lease on the high rise office tower portion of the project. Construction began in early 1993 and was completed in 1995."

The Vancouver Art Gallery.

Walking around Vancouver I spied this little waterfall tucked between two buildings.

The public market on Granville Island.

Prius taxicabs!

Halibut and mash. My friends at Zachary's.

SALT SPRING ISLAND, British Columbia

Monday 23 July 2012. Later in the day I headed for the Vancouver rail station where I got the bus to Tsawwassen and the ferry to Swartz Bay. A nice cruise. By prior arrangement, I met up with Rosemarie and Pat Keough on the ferry from Swartz Bay to Fulford Harbour on Salt Spring Island. They've graciously invited me to stay, an all-too-short stay of one night.

The Ferry from Vancouver to Swartz Bay.
"Saltspring Island was initially inhabited by Salishan peoples of various tribes. The island became a refuge from racism for African Americans who had resided in California. Settled in 1858 by ex-slaves from Missouri who travelled to California, and then north to British Columbia at the invitation of Governor James Douglas, himself a Guyanese mulatto, the island was the first of the Gulf Islands to be settled. Demographically, early settlers of the island included not only African Americans, but also (largely) English and European, as well as Irish, Scottish, aboriginal and Hawaiian. During the 1960s the island once again became a refuge for US citizens, this time for draft dodgers during the Vietnam War. The island was known as "Chuan" or "Chouan" Island in 1854, but it was also called "Saltspring" as early as 1855, in honor of the island's salt springs. In 1859, it was officially named "Admiralty Island" in honor of Rear-Admiral Robert Lambert Baynes by surveyor Captain Richards, who named various points of the island in honor of the Rear-Admiral and his flagship, HMS Ganges. Even while named "Admiralty Island", it was referred to popularly as Saltspring."

Looking down to Fulford Harbour from Mt. Maxwell.

The harbor at Ganges.
"Where did Ganges get its name? It is named after the British naval ship HMS Ganges. The first HMS Ganges was built in England and launched in 1782, and finally broken up in 1816. The second HMS Ganges, that visited Salt Spring Island, was built in in Bombay, India. construction was of Malabar teak. She was launched on November 10, 1821. She sailed to Portsmouth, England, in 1822 for fitting out and was commissioned in 1823. The HMS Ganges was in the Pacific region from 1857 to 1861. During this three year commission, she sailed 60,100 nautical miles. She was the flagship of the Pacific Squadron under Rear Admiral Sir Robert Lambert Baynes. The proper name for Mt. Maxwell is Baynes Peak. Fulford Harbour is named after Captain John Fulford. After a period as a training ship and a hospital ship, she was finally broken up in 1929."

Native petroglyph between two trees in Fulford Harbour.

St Paul's Church.
"Salt Spring Island’s oldest church was founded in 1878 by Father Donckele, the first Roman Catholic missionary to the Gulf islands. Erected between 1880 and 1885 by members of the community, the windows, door and bell were acquired from father Rondeault’s “Butter Church” in Cowichan Bay. The materials were brought in Indian canoes from Cowichan Bay to Burgoyne Bay, then by ox-drawn stoneboat to this site. The church was formally dedicated on May 10, 1885, by Bishop J. B. Brondel. Coloured stonework was added about 1973."

Free range turkeys.

Tuesday 24 July 2012. An awful lot was crammed into less than a day on Salt Spring Island. It was dark on Monday when we got to the top of the hill where the Keough's marvelous house is perched. This they designed and largely built themselves. Really fabulous. Look at the woodwork! Look at the stonework! On Tuesday, Rosemarie and I drove around the island until lunchtime. What a good tour guide she is. We walked around Ganges, drove up to the top of Mt. Maxwell, visited a cheese farm, saw some free range turkeys, and tried to find in vain Charles Wright's house (Antarctic connection). After lunch, I was back on the ferry headed for Swartz Bay.

Rosemarie and Pat Keough.

The Keough's living room. A tree grows.


In the kitchen. View from the dining room.


Yet another view.

And another one!

The ferry between Swartz Bay and Fulford Harbour.

Rosemarie sees me off at the ferry at Fulford Harbour.

Arriving at Swartz Bay.

From Swartz Bay I took the local bus to Victoria, about an hour's trip, and found myself beside the Parliament building, just a short walk from the James Bay Inn, my hotel for the next two nights.

VICTORIA, British Columbia

Victoria's a lovely city and fortunately the weather was cooperating. I walked around that evening and enjoyed the buskers. (The city was having a multi-day buskers festival so there were performances scattered about the downtown.) Later, I found a good restaurant and enjoyed some fish and chips.

My hotel.

Some of the buskers.

Fish and chips at Nautical Nellies.

Wednesday 25 July 2012. I spent the morning mostly on a city bus tour which hit all the highlights. And after lunch at the Bard & Banker (a pub that once was a bank where Robert Service worked) I headed for the Provincial Archives where I stayed until closing going through some Antarctic letters and diaries. That evening, I went to the Bengal Lounge at the Empress Hotel and enjoyed a good Indian meal.

Architecture on Government Street.


The art deco Visitor Centre.
"A masterful Art Deco pavilion topped with a shining white obelisk rising high above the Inner Harbour. It would be a tribute to the taste and vision of city tourism officials, except that it started out life as a gas station."

The BC Parliament.
"In 1892, a 25-year-old Yorkshireman arrived on the west coast just as an architectural competition for a new Legislature Building in Victoria was announced. Francis Mawson Rattenbury had no professional credentials but was blessed with both talent and ambition. He submitted a set of drawings and, to the surprise of all, beat out 65 other entries from around the continent."

Empress Hotel. Doglike trees at the Empress.
"There is a view, when the morning mists peel off the harbor, where the steamers tie up, of the Houses of Parliament on one hand, and a huge hotel on the other, which is an example of cunningly fitted-in waterfronts and facades worth a very long journey." Thus spoke Rudyard Kipling during a visit to the city in 1908. If he'd come only 5 years earlier, he would've been looking at a nasty, garbage-choked swamp. The causeway was then a narrow bridge over the tidal inlet, and as Victorians made a habit of pitching their refuse over the rail, the bay was, not surprisingly, a stinking cesspit of slime. In 1900, the ever-shrewd Canadian Pacific Railway made an offer to the city -- we'll build a causeway and fill in the stinky bay if you let us keep the land. The city jumped at the offer. Little was expected -- the land was swamp, after all. But taking their cue from the good folks in Amsterdam, the CPR drove long pilings down through the muck to provide a solid foundation. And on top of that, they built the Fairmont Empress. The architect was Francis Rattenbury, and his design was masterful, complementing his own Provincial Legislature Buildings to create the view that has defined the city ever since."

The Bengal Lounge in the Empress Hotel, where I enjoyed the Indian buffet.

Trees along Government Street.

Captain Cook.
"This bronze statue was commissioned by the Victoria Environmental Enhancement Foundation and was unveiled on July 12, 1976 by the Honourable Bill Bennett, the Premier of the Province of British Columbia.
The inscription reads:
Capt. James Cook, R.N.
After two historic voyages to the South Pacific, Cook was cruising the waters of the Pacific Northwest on his third and final voyage with his two ships, Resolution and Discovery. He was searching for the Western exit to the legendary Northwest Passage. In March 1778, they put into Nootka Sound for repairs and to trade with the native people. With him on the voyage were Mr. William Bligh as Master of the Resolution and Midshipman George Vancouver."

Orca topiary.

The Olmsted Brothers designed Uplands neighborhood in 1907.
Lots of trees, curves and no sidewalks are the appeal.
"In 1907, the developers of Uplands purchased the area for the sum of $275,000 and hired the leading landscape architect John Olmsted as the designer. Olmsted designed famous neighbourhoods and parks in North America. The Uplands of today is faithful to Olmsted's vision: an elegant neighbourhood with estate-sized lots, serpentine streets and the signature green, globed, ornate lamp posts. The houses are built to impress and the sprawling gardens are carefully manicured."

Leaving Victoria for Seattle.

SEATTLE, Washington

Thursday 26 July 2012. Not long after breakfast I was on the ferry to Seattle, a lovely cruise that got me to a pier in downtown Seattle about 2:30. Marty Greene just happened to be downtown at the same time, so he picked me up. He ran a few errands, then we headed back to his and Toby's house where I would be staying for the next three nights. It was a busy time for them as they were also hosting musicians who were in town for a series of concerts sponsored by the annual Chamber Music Society that Toby's been running for many years.
That night we enjoyed some rehearsals, spent some time in Marty's fabulous library and were well fed by Tom the visiting chef.

Approaching Seattle. Where we landed.

Toby and Marty—my hosts.

Rehearsal at Toby and Marty's.

Friday 27 July 2012. In the morning, Marty and I took the ferry over to Bainbridge Island where we spent an hour or so with Bob and Carol Finch. Bob was the dean of American polar booksellers for many years. It was nice to catch up.

Marty and I went over to Bainbridge Island to visit the retired Dean of polar booksellers—Bob Finch.

Approaching Seattle, coming back from Bainbridge Island.

We made a stop at the Pike Place Market to pick up some food. A lot of activity there. Walked by the Gum Wall.

Pike Place Market.
"Pike Place Market is a public market overlooking the Elliott Bay waterfront in Seattle, Washington, United States. The Market opened August 17, 1907, and is one of the oldest continually operated public farmers' markets in the United States."

Gum wall.
"The Market Theater Gum Wall is a local landmark in downtown Seattle, in Post Alley under Pike Place Market. Similar to Bubblegum Alley in San Luis Obispo, California, the Market Theater Gum Wall is a brick alleyway wall now covered in used chewing gum. Parts of the wall are covered several inches thick, 15 feet high for 50 feet."
The wall is by the box office for the Market Theater, and the tradition began around 1993 when patrons of Unexpected Productions' Seattle Theatresports stuck gum to the wall and placed coins in the gum blobs. Theater workers scraped the gum away twice, but eventually gave up after market officials deemed the gum wall a tourist attraction around 1999. Some people create small works of art out of gum.
It was named one of the top 5 germiest tourist attractions in 2009, second to the Blarney Stone."
That night we went to the recital and concert at Benaroya Hall in downtown Seattle and got to see those who had been rehearsing at the Greene's, do their stuff. Very impressive. I was taken by the geometry of the hall's ceiling.

Concert hall lobby. The concert hall ceiling.

After the concert, we went to a very interesting restaurant with the performers. We pretty much sat in the kitchen. A relaxing way to do it.

After the concert.

Saturday 28 July 2012. I took the bus into central Seattle and did a bit of nosing around. Found at least two penguins: One at Pacific Place, a shopping mall, and the other, of porcelain, at the Seattle Art Museum. Went by monorail to and from the Space Needle and spent some time and had a coffee at the new Seattle Library. Topped it off with lunch on the waterfront. Back to the Greene's by bus and later that night, a lovely roast beef dinner.

Metal penguin. Porcelain penguin. Seattle rules!


Two things I liked at the Seattle Art Museum. (One of the better Rothkos around.)

"The Seattle Center Monorail is an elevated monorail line in Seattle, Washington, that runs a little under one mile along Fifth Avenue between Seattle Center in Lower Queen Anne and Westlake Center in Downtown. Seattle Center Monorail is a fully self-sufficient public transit system with a top speed of 45 mph. Owned by the City of Seattle, the line has been operated by a private contractor, Seattle Monorail Services, since 1994. The monorail trains and their tracks were given historical landmark status by the Seattle Landmarks Preservation Board April 16, 2003."

The Space Needle.
"The Space Needle is a tower in Seattle, Washington and a major landmark of the Pacific Northwest region of the United States and a symbol of Seattle. Located at the Seattle Center, it was built for the 1962 World's Fair, during which time nearly 20,000 people a day used the elevators, with over 2.3 million visitors in all for the World Fair. The Space Needle is 605 feet high at its highest point and 138 feet wide at its widest point and weighs 9,550 tons. When it was completed it was the tallest structure west of the Mississippi River."

The Seattle Library.
"Rem Koolhaas and Joshua Prince-Ramus of the Dutch firm Office for Metropolitan Architecture (OMA), working in conjunction with the Seattle firm LMN Architects, served as the building's principal architects."
Sunday 29 July 2012. Marty dropped me off at the King Street Station and I was soon on my way to Portland aboard Amtrak. A very relaxing 4 hours or so. Some interesting things to see along the way, one being the Tacoma Narrows Bridge.

Tacoma Narrows Bridge. "Galloping Gertie," the predecessor, cashed it in in 1940.
"The original Tacoma Narrows Bridge opened on July 1, 1940. It received its nickname "Galloping Gertie" because of the vertical movement of the deck observed by construction workers during windy conditions. The bridge became known for its pitching deck, and collapsed into Puget Sound the morning of November 7, 1940, under high wind conditions. Engineering issues as well as the United States' involvement in World War II postponed plans to replace the bridge for several years; the replacement bridge was opened on October 14, 1950."

Crossing the Columbia River near Portland.


My train at Union Station. Union Station and rapid transit.
"The initial design for the station was created in 1882 by McKim, Mead, and White. Had the original plan been built, the station would have been the largest train station in the world. A smaller plan was introduced by architects Van Brunt & Howe, and accepted in 1885. Construction of the station began in 1890. It was built by Northern Pacific Terminal Company at a cost of $300,000, and opened on February 14, 1896. The signature piece of the structure is the 150 ft. tall Romanesque clock tower. The neon signs were added to it in 1948. The signs read "Go by Train" on the northeast and southwest sides and "Union Station" on the northwest and southeast sides. The station was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1975."
Arrived at Union Station in Portland and walked to the Benson Hotel, not too far away. A very nice hotel, well located. Later Sunday I walked around a bit and got my bearings. That evening I decided to eat in the hotel's lounge.

Benson Hotel.
"Now a wealthy man, Benson's interests expanded beyond the timber industry. In 1912, he began building a fine hotel because he felt it was needed in Portland to attract tourists and more commerce to the city. It was modeled on the Blackstone Hotel in Chicago, a brick structure with the same type of French mansard roof. It opened in 1913 and was known as the Oregon Hotel. For sixteen months it lost money and finally Benson took over management, at which time it became known as the Benson Hotel."

Water bubblers.
"Simon Benson was a tee-totaler and he wanted to discourage his workers from drinking alcohol in the middle of the day. In 1912, Benson gave the City of Portland $10,000 for the installation of twenty bronze drinking fountains. These fountains, known as "Benson Bubblers", are still in use in downtown Portland. Today there are 41 Benson Fountains, forty in Portland and one in Sapporo, Japan, one of Portland’s Sister Cities."

Steak Frites at the Benson Hotel.

Monday 30 July 2012. A lovely day. Spent much of the morning on a city tour which gave me a good feel for Portland. In the afternoon visited the Oregon Historical Society and then an hour or so at Powells Books.

Pioneer Courthouse Square.
"Pioneer Courthouse Square, affectionately known as Portland's living room, is a public space occupying a full 40,000 sq ft city block in the center of downtown Portland, Oregon, United States. The square is bounded by Southwest Morrison Street on the north, Southwest 6th Avenue on the east, Southwest Yamhill Street on the south, and Southwest Broadway on the west. It is ranked as the world's fourth-best public square."

Powells Books—the largest independent bookstore in the world.
"Powell's was founded by Walter Powell in 1971. His son, Michael Powell, had started a bookstore in Chicago, Illinois, in 1970 which specialized in used, rare, and discounted books, primarily of an academic and scholarly nature. In 1979, Michael Powell joined his father in Portland, right after his father lost its lease; within a year, they found the location that became its current headquarters. Michael bought the bookstore from his father in 1982."

"Big Pink," built in 1983 as the headquarters of U.S. Bancorp;
designed by SOM with Pietro Bellushchi as consultant.

In walking around earlier in the day I came upon Jake's Famous Crawfish which looked like a good place to have dinner that evening. So I returned and, indeed, it proved a good choice.

Jakes Famous Crawfish.
I had seafood newburg.
"Jake's Famous Crawfish is a seafood restaurant in Portland, Oregon, founded in 1892 by Jacob "Jake" Lewis Freiman.
Rachel Dresbeck described the restaurant as having a "turn-of-the-last-century ambiance, with its maze of booths snug against brick walls, its antique oil paintings, deep wood paneling, beautiful bar and crisp white linen."
After dinner I returned to the hotel, picked up my bag, and took the shuttle to the airport where I caught my flight home, arriving the next morning. A long and enjoyable trip.

New York skyline at sunrise from above Newark Airport.

New York skyline at sunrise from the terminal at Newark Airport.