The Ski Museum at Holmenkollen just outside Oslo. 3 May 2003. Site No: 015. One section is devoted to Amundsen and the Antarctic. Among the things seen behind the glass were: Scott's skis (according to Kåre Berg these were taken from Scott's tent by Gran and used to ski back to Cape Evans), compass, camera, glasses, snow goggles, Fram coffee cup, Amundsen's skis, clothing, tins, socks, boots, a third pair of skis (Hassel), dog harness, fourth pair of skis (Bjaaland), tent (reproduction), dog whip, stuffed husky. On our visit it was blowing a gale and snowing; fine weather for May!
Exterior view. The Fram Museum at Bygdøy in Oslo. 4 May 2003. Site No. 17. Among the things we saw on display: Busts of Colin Archer, Roald Amundsen, Hjalmar Riiser-Larsen; penguin display; several Nansen sledges; large white full larger-than-life sculpture of Roald Amundsen; books including Sydpolen; cameras; skis; guns; Fram enamel plates; log book opened to 16-24 Jan 1911; wood match from cache at Mt. Betty with sheet of paper signed by S.A. Strom, BAE 1928-30, cache located by Larry Gould; Emperor penguin egg; packet of razor blades with portrait of Amundsen; statuette of Amundsen; various medals, small model of the Fram, ca. 2-1/2 feet long; reproduction of south pole tent on deck; Cabin 2 is Wisting's cabin (one of two; he died in a second one while working on the restoration); oil portrait of Amundsen; Amundsen's cabin is No 7; Wisting's second cabin is No 8; 6 pairs of skis and loaded sledge on lower level; various stamps and postal items; Norwegian flag signed by Amundsen taken on several of his expeditions. And much more.
The Fram Museum. Interior view showing the Fram.
The Fram Museum. Interior view. Stern detail showing the retractable propeller and rudder.
The Fram Museum. Rob at helm; he got us through without a scratch.
Norsk Sjøfartsmuseum [Norwegian Maritime Museum] at Bygdøy in Oslo. 4 May 2003. Site No. 632. Bust of Roald Amundsen beside the Gjøa.
At the Jacobsen's for shrimps on Sunday night, 4 May 2003. What a lot of Amundsen treasures we saw!
Martin Rønne's grave near the center of Horten, between Oslo and Sandefjord. 5 May 2003. Site No: 639. Martin Rønne was with Amundsen in the Antarctic and was the father of Finn Ronne, Noregian-American Antarctic explorer.
Martin Rønne's grave. Detail.
Statue of Oscar Wisting on a main street in Horten, between Oslo and Sandefjord. 5 May 2003. Site No: 690. The inscription reads: Oscar | Wisting | 1871 - 1938 | Sydpole (-1911 | N O Passasjen - 1918-20 | Maud-Ferden - 1921-25 | Nordpolen - 1926. It was sculpted by Carl E. Paulsen in 1937. We found this (and the one of Amundsen in Tønsberg--both by Paulsen--quite by chance, never having known of them before. I haven't been able to determine the Horten connection; presumably, Wisting either was born there or lived there. There is also a Wisting statue in Larvik which, unfortunately, we didn't have time to see.
Statue of Roald Amundsen on the main road into Tønsberg, south of Oslo. 5 May 2003. Site No: 691. Also by Carl Paulsen, in 1932. It's a full-figure in bronze on a stone base. The wording on the back reads: Reist Av | Tønsbergensere. On Amundsen's left: 1928. On the front: Roald Amundsen. On Amundsen's right: 1872. Adjoining is a raised circular structure which is probably a pool (unfilled) with a bronze penguiin with uplifted head, presumably a fountain.
Commander Chr. Christensen's Whaling Museum, Museumsgaten 39, Sandefjord. 5 May 2003. Site No: 631. Exterior view. One of the world's great whaling museums. Some exciting fantasies took hold here!
The site of the launching of the Polaris, later renamed Endurance. Sandifjord. 5 May 2003. Site No: 692. Polaris was built by the Framnaes shipyard in Sandefjord for Adrien de Gerlache. The shipyard is still there but now is a few hundred yards further along the shore. The man on the right is the grandson of Sørlle, the manager at Stromness during Shackleton's Endurance days. He had an eye for our Wendy.
Roald Amundsens Hjem [Amundsen's House] ("Uranienborg"), Svartskog, south of Oslo. 6 May 2003. Site No: 016. This was Amundsen's home from 1908 until 1928. Among the things we saw: Hall: Sledge from South Pole expedition; Lincoln Ellsworth's snowshoes. Sitting Room: Piano from the Fram; Stone from Mt. Betty; Model of the N25 airplane hanging from ceiling; paintings by Frank Stokes. Dining Room: Leather covered straight-back chairs with RA mongram. Upstairs Study: Library; Adelie penguin from Belgica expedition; large South Polar map that was on the Fram; Flag accompanying Amundsen on all his expeditions; photo and bust of Lincoln Ellsworth. Dressing Room. Bathroom. Bedroom: with portholes.
Roald Amundsens Hjem [Amundsen's House] ("Uranienborg"). Amundsen's polar book collection in his study on the second floor.
Roald Amundsens Hjem [Amundsen's House] ("Uranienborg"). Statue of Amundsen outside his house above the fjord. It was sculpted by Arne N. Vigeland in 1971.
Roald Amundsens Minne [Amundsen's birthplace], Torp, Fredrikstad, south of Oslo. 6 May 2003. Site No: 633. "The polar explorer Roald Amundsen was born in 1872 on the family estate at Hvidsten, which lies between Sarpsborg and Fredrikstad. Amundsen's childhood home dates from 1860 and remains almost unaltered in the last 100 years. The building is in the late Empire style and is situated in a scenic area near the Glomma, Norway's longest river. A large stone monument showing a relief of Roald Amundsen was erected here on December 14, 1928 in memory of his extradordinary polar expeditions. His family were in shipping and owned a shipyard. The river was ice-free during the winter, making it ideal for the winter storage of ships." To the right is the stone bust of Amundsen.
Roald Amundsens Minne [Amundsen's birthplace]. Amundsen's cradle.
Roald Amundsens Minne [Amundsen's birthplace]. Obelisk at Amundsen's birthplace, erected on December 14, 1928. It is situated behind the house.
Roald Amundsens Minne [Amundsen's birthplace]. Beside Amundsen's birthplace is a very modern and attractive conference and events facility.
Dinner at the Chaplins, outside Oslo. 6 May 2003. What a gala event this was, complete with reindeer stew and a sumptuous low calorie/low chloresterol (!) dessert. Susan Barr joined us. Many thanks to Paul and Kirsti for the hospitality and to Paul and Anne Christene for the expert tour guiding during an eventful day.
Fefor Høifjellshotell, Fefor, Vinstra - Gudbrandsdalen. 7 May 2003. Site No: 640. Fefor is where Scott tested out his motor sledges. "Fridtjof Nansen was a regular guest and it was through him that Robert Scott learnt about Fefor. Two of Scott's training sessions took place at Fefor before he set out on his fatal expedition to the Antarctic." It was also at Fefor that Rob amazed all by getting a cork out of a wine bottle with nothing more than a cloth napkin!
Anne Gutu, our hostess at Den Blå Dør (The Blue Door), Skedsmogata 7, Oslo. She was great and The Blue Door was the perfect headquarters for The 2003 Trans-Norway Antarctic Expedition. We'll remember those breakfasts for some time.
Our Group on the steps of "Uranienborg." Front: Wendy Driver, Jonathan Shackleton, Cathy Cooper. Middle: Judy Skelton, Anne Christene Amundsen Jacobsen, the caretaker at "Uranienborg". Rear: Rob Stephenson, Shane Murphy and Mary Royds Cleveland. Expert photo work by Paul Chaplin.